Thanks for the tip about Umami! Their lab guides are really cool and it's nice they provide it.
Really torn between these two options now 😅 I am technically curious I think and so the appeal of Heztner + Caddy is there.
sidenote: I see Uberspace is switching to Caddy for their V8 which is neat.
But I also want to focus on dev... not too much server management. With static site dev though, I feel it might not be *too* bad to self-host.